Episode 181: Regional Rap – Let’s go Loire!
This month’s Regional Rap is a virtual Loire lap in under 30 minutes! From the Muscadet of Pays Nantais, through Vouvray all the way to Pouilly-Fumé. Anjou and Haut-Poitou? Don’t mind if we do! We explore “Saumur,” grapes and styles galore, and hope this is an episode you will adore.
In the Glasses (1:50)
Steph: 2017 Champalou Vouvray, Loire Valley, France (Chenin Blanc).
Val: 2016 Domaine des Clos Godeaux, Les Maupas, Chinon, Loire Valley, France (Cabernet Franc).
Regional Rap on the Loire (2:45)
To start, there are more than 60 AOCs in the region!
As we move west to east, lower to upper Loire, there are changes in the climate, grapes, and styles of wines.
The climate will change from a maritime environment, being shrouded in coastal influence to a continental climate, gradually.
History
Cradle of Modern France in 1429 when steps toward independence from England were taken in Chinon by Joan d’Arc and Charles VII, who would go on to be king.
Monks in the 1600s are credited for bolstering viticulture and setting the stage for quality wines for the next hundred years. But it was also during the middle ages that people began building their chateaux, and vacation homes – France for the rich and famous, and why we see so many beautiful chateaux there along the river today.
Portions of the Loire became a UNESCO world heritage site in 2000.
Steph’s chateau drive-by through the Loire
Geography: (4:34)
The Loire river is 634 miles long! It begins its journey in Central France and empties into the Atlantic Ocean. At one time it actually connected with the Seine, yet it still holds the title of the longest river in France.
Lower Loire known as Pays Nantais (5:32)
Climate
Therefore, in the Lower Loire or Pays Nantais, we’re talking strictly Maritime. It’s flat here, so there’s no protection from frost, but we can’t discount the moderating effects of the Atlantic.
Grapes
We should also mention that it’s easier to start in the west with the Pays Nantais, because the focus here is on only a couple of grapes: the white kind. Specifically, Melon de Bourgogne, which you will see on a label as Muscadet.
Folle Blanche lives here too, as does Pinot Gris
There are red grapes that can be used in the Fiefs Vendéens AOCs, where red white and rose’ styles are produced.
Styles
Muscadet AOC.
Muscadet-Sevre et Maine AOC and its three subzones (most of the Muscadet comes from here)
Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire AOC
Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu AOC
Muscadet wines in general are dry, light, fresh and pleasantly crisp. They should be consumed in their youth, and represent a good value.
You might also see on the label “sur lie” meaning the wine spent extra time in tank with the lees (dead yeast cells). This adds richness to the wine and can also give the wine a slight effervescence.
Middle Loire (Anjou, Saumur, Touraine, bubbles, rose’, oh my) (10:16)
Known as Le Jardin de la France (Garden of France) this is Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc country.
Climate
The climate starts to take on some continental characteristics, like diurnal swings, but still has that maritime moderation and influence. A variety of styles of wines can be produced here.
Grapes
We’re talking Chenin Blanc, which they call Pineau de la Loire, for the white grapes, but Arbois in Cheverny (AOC) and the Romorantin also appear here known for its Cour-Cheverny wines.
Cabernet Franc rules the red grapes. Here it’s called Breton, but Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec (known as Côt) are also grown here. We find the Pinots Noir and Meunier (mostly for sparkling wine), and some interesting autochthonous varieties such as Pineau d’Aunis (Cheverny and Coteaux du Vendômois AOC) and Grolleau – mostly for rose’. There’s also Gamay.
Styles
Hoo boy, are there styles.
Tiny bubbles
Pétillants (more like frizzante)
Mousseaux (bubbly)
Cremant (made in the traditional method)
*NOTE sparkling wines made in the classic or traditional method, such as in Champagne, that are OUTSIDE of Champagne (but still French) are called Cremant.
Also, in the Loire, all of these sparkling wines produced here are generally known as Fines Bulles.
Reds, whites, rose’ wines, are all made here, and it’s the sweet wines that are made from Chenin Blanc.
Also, please see the Semillon Grape Gab in Episode 180 for the botrytis segment, because it applies here like nobody’s business! Chenin Grape Gab in Episode 124.
Notables in the Sparkling category, along with Cremant de la Loire, include AOCs:
- Anjou Mousseux
- Saumur Mousseux
All of these are available in white and rose’ styles.
White only Fine Bulles include:
- Montlouis-Sur-Loire and Vouvray, both in Pétillant and Mousseux
White still wines
Our nominees for the white category are many, but we should start by pointing out that Savennieres, Vouvray, and Montlouis-Sur-Loire have styles ranging from dry to sweet.
There is no generalization to be made here other than there is something here for everyone, every food, and to please every crowd, from the easy-sippers to the cerebral sippers.
Other notable white only, dry only whites: Jasnières, Cour-Cheverney
Rose’ d’Anjou? Don’t mind of we do!
Cabernet and Rose’ d’Anjou (both sweet)
Rose’ de Loire, Touraine Noble Joué (both dry)
A range of dry to sweet styles found in Cabernet de Saumur rose’ wines
In the red only category:
Anjou Gamay, -Villages, and -Villages Brissac, Orléans-Cléry.
What’s red or white but yummy all over?
Saumur has both red and white styles.
Red, white AND rose’ styles: Chinon, Coteaux du Loire, Haut-Poitou, Orléans, Touraine (and even Touraine Pétillant and Mousseux!, yes a red sparkling from France!), Valençay.
Red and rose’ only include: Bourgueil, St-Nicolas de Bourgueil.
Dessert styles:
Hello sweet Bonnezeaux, Chaume, Coteaux du Layon, Quarts de Chaume (all white).
We really need to stop there, but the point of all this is to let you know that so many of these AOCs offer a range of styles from still to sparkling, dry to sweet, white to red, and everything in between. Drink Loire (this is not an ad but freaking should be).
Upper Loire (Pouilly Fumé, Menetou-Salon, Quincy, Sancerre) (21:04)
This is the smallest of the Loire’s regions. We’re heading closer to Paris, just about 80 miles south toward Burgundy.
Climate
This area is also known as “Loire-Centre” but that’s the geographical description, it’s toward the middle of France, but not to be confused with the Middle Loire that we just spent a week discussing. What this means is the climate is full on continental, escaping the moderating influences of the warm, wet western Lower Loire.
Grapes
Oddly enough, we’re back to white grape country after all that excitement in the Middle Loire.
Sauvignon Blanc is the name, and Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé, and Quincy are the main games.
But Chasselas, seen in Swiss wines, makes an appearance in Pouilly-Sur-Loire, with Pinot Gris, Sacy (Tressalier) bring up the rear.
Red grapes are ruled by Pinot Noir and Gamay.
Styles
Dry, dry, dry. Still, dry, but in all the colors from white to rose’ to red.
Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé are similar (generally) – light to medium bodied, citrusy, herbaceous, and energetic. Pouilly-Fumé might have a slight flintiness and fuller texture.
The other white wines from this area – Quincy, Reuilly, and Menetou-Salon – are similarly dry, crisp, lovely Sauvignon Blancs. Drink them all young and fresh.
There are light reds, from Pinot Noir, and rose’ wines from either Pinot Noir or Pinot Gris also coming from Reuilly and Menetou-Salon.
Final point: red Sancerre? Yes. Rose’? Yes. Thank you very Pinot much.
Learn more: (26:32)
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Connect (26:58)
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