Episode 191: Grape Gab – Wild, Wily Sauvignon Blanc
Sauvignon Blanc is at the center of our monthly Grape Gab. Think it’s all about cat pee and teeth-stripping acidity? Think again. We talk styles, clones, mutations, and the world’s most expensive bottle of this stuff. There’s even a conference!
In the Glasses (1:47)
Val: 2009 Chateau Rieussec, Sauternes, France
Steph: 2015 Carrick Sauvignon Blanc, Central Otago, New Zealand
Grape Gab: Sauvignon Blanc (4:15)
Can we just say that it is a cool freaking grape and we are sorry that it took us 190 episodes to get some change for the Sauvignon bus and ride?
What it is (4:50)
Sauvignon blanc is an aromatic, white grape made famous by the stylish, classic wines from Sancerre and the fun, 1980’s flavor eruption from New Zealand.
The zingy, fresh New Zealand style seems to be the world’s-most-popular, favorite white wine right now. It has beauty, structure, complexity, and the ability to arouse. It takes on a sense of place, a bold identity, yet can be submissive to the winemaker. Styles range from sparkling, to dry, to dessert wines.
Sauv Blanc synonyms (7:34)
- France: Blanc Fumé (Pouilly-Fumé), Punechon, Surin, Sauvignon Jaune, Gentin à Romorantin
- California: Fumé Blanc, Savagnin Musqué
- Italy: Sauvignon
- Austria: Muskat-Silvaner
- Germany: Feigentraube, Muskat-Silvaner
- Slovenia: Muscat-Silvaner
Wild origins (8:36)
Sauvignon comes from the word sauvage, meaning “wild” in French. So it is the wild white grape and the vine itself, which is hard to control and begs to be grafted onto lower vigor root stocks followed up with aggressive canopy management.
Wine Grapes also cites Lavignac’s (2001) mentioning of a place in the Béarn of Gallo-Roman origins named Sauvignon tucked away in the Pyrenees. (Robinson, Harding, & Vouillamoz, 2012).
Where for art thou? (9:30)
It is thought to originate from the Loire (peep our regional rap on this, Episode 181) according to trusty DNA analysis, AND the fact that there are more clonal variations (Foundation Plant Services, 2010) there, AND perhaps maybe it was first mentioned there in the 16th century, where it was known as Fié (or Fiers).
Southwestern France Bordeaux was also in the running for the grape’s origins. Either way, Sauvignon Blanc’s roots are definitely in France and the wines from the Loire Valley are unmatched by anywhere else in the world.
Where specifically in the Loire? Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé, Menetou-Salon, Reuilly, Quincy and Touraine are the star regions. In Touraine you can still buy wines with Fié on the label, where some consider this a direct ancestor of Sauvignon Blanc.
Who’s yer grape daddy? (12:00)
Sauvignon Blanc is a cross between Traminer (Savignin Blanc from Jura) and … nobody really knows. What we do know is that it is the grape daddy (mommy?) of Cabernet Sauvignon.
Other relatives include Chenin Blanc and Trousseau, with half-siblings Gruner Veltliner, Verdelho, Petit Manseng and Petit Meslier (also grown in Champagne).
Distant relatives include Semillon, although the exact relationship is not known … outside the relationship in Val’s glass of Sauternes.
Where else in the world? (13:08)
Maybe it’s better to say where we can’t find it? That might be a shorter list.
In France – Burgundy’s St. Bris, Languedoc.
Around Europe – in Italy, look to the Northeast, and it’s also in Spain’s Rueda. The Austrians grow it in Styria too.
The USA – especially California and Washington.
Just 10 years ago it comprised the majority of white wine grape plantings in Israel.
In the Southern Hemisphere – Chile, South Africa, Australia’s cooler areas and of course New Zealand, especially Marlborough.
But how about Romania, Slovenia, Moldova and Turkey (http://vinorai.com/turkey/terroir/)?
… and speaking of…
From our listener Andrea ParMieuxWineVentures (@LemieuxAndrea on Twitter):
“Sauvignon Blanc is hugely popular here! Particularly in the Thracian and Aegean growing regions. It’s probably the 2nd or 3rd most popular white grape here. I look forward to the new cast!”
In the wine glass (15:45)
Common blending partners are Sémillon and Muscadelle. However, it is blended in many regions around the world with countless grapes – remember our Israel episode where it was blended with Viognier, Muscat and Chardonnay? And why not?
It shows up in the glass just fine all by itself, all around the world. Its calling cards are generally an herbaciousness or pronounced grassiness – a green characteristic from the pyrazine compounds, also found in less ripe Cabernet – and prominent acidity. But remember, some regions bring their own signatures from flinty, smokey Silex in the Loire, to the oak treatment in California. Fruits can range from lemon, lime, and other citrus to stone and tree fruits.
Shades of Sauvignon (17:45)
As with many other grapes, the Sauvignon isn’t just straight up blanc. Mutations include Gris (grey), Rose (pink), and Rouge (Red).
Talk about a #W25Challenge! 2016 Jacky Preys “Cuvée de Fié Gris” Touraine Blanc Vieilles Vignes
Send in the clones (18:45)
There are about a dozen or so different clones of this prolific grape. The history behind these is, for corkdorks, fascinating.
You can read about them if you want to see who is growing what where: http://cemendocino.ucanr.edu/files/63273.pdf
Factoid fantasy round (19:45)
- Most expensive Sauvignon Blanc in the world = Screaming Eagle $3800-4900
- Age worthy (10-15 years) 100% Sauvignon Blanc = Château Couhins-Lurton Blanc
- Where to learn the most about the grape:
Resources (21:58)
On the web
For the record, we love us some “Bubbly Professor TV.” Just sayin’.
Jancis Robinson’s Wine Course (1995) Episode 4: Sauvignon Blanc
Jancis Robinson.com on Sauvignon Blanc
The Great Courses: Californian Wine vs. French Wine: Sauvignon Blanc with Jennifer Simonetti-Bryan
Books
Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). Wine grapes: A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours [Kindle Edition]. New York: Ecco.
Extra corkdork credit fun links:
Foundation Plant Services (2010). http://cemendocino.ucanr.edu/files/63273.pdf
UC Davis: http://www.iv.ucdavis.edu/files/24360.pdf
Cheers to Weeky Tasting (22:50)
Weekly Tasting by WTSO is our show sponsor. Even though they put together some fabulous tasting kits every single week, we did some trolling to find out they have some Sauvignon Blancs on hand (as of this recording in late November) from countries around the world.
– (USA) Liparita Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc, St. Helena
– (France) Domaine Beausejour Les Silex – Touraine, Loire Valley
– (Argentina) Familia Scotti Gran Delirio Sauvignon Blanc, Mendoza
– (Chile) Matetic EQ ‘Coastal’ Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley
Our listeners have their very own listener page at: weeklytasting.com/W25 to sign up and get started!
Or just click on the WTSO logo on the top right of this web page – they may have more or others by now.
Follow them on Instagram, FaceBook, and Twitter and see what’s new and good!
Patreon Love (24:15)
Thank you to our patrons who support us on our Patreon crowdfunding platform!
*We do read all the names on the show, and feature the list on our Support page.*
Connect (25:48)
Between each weekly chat you can find us on the social spaces @WineTwoFive, and play in our private FaceBook group called Wine Two Five Community!
Connect with Val on Twitter @WineGalUnboxed and everywhere else as @VinoWithVal.
Steph is in all the social spaces as @TheWineHeroine.
You can also find us on the My Wine Society App. There are also channels on travel, wellness, events, wineries and more.
