Episode 193: Grape Gab on Cabernet Franc

Actually, we are being frank about Cabernet Franc. Hey, we didn’t name the grape, but we are going to get gabby with it regardless.

In the Glasses (1:30)

Steph:

2012 Eponymous Cabernet Franc – Macallister Vineyard, Sonoma Valley – 96% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon

2014 Chateau de Ribebon Bordeaux Superieur – 85% Cab Franc,15% Merlot

Val:

2016 Domaine Dozon Chinon Rosé by Eric Santier, Loire Valley, France (Cabernet Franc)

Cabernet Franc (5:50)

What it is

The red grape variety responsible for the famous wine of Château Cheval Blanc from Saint-Émilion. The small blue-black berries are thinner skinned than Cabernet Sauvignon and therefore ripen about a week or so earlier. The vines are vigorous and not too terribly picky about climate. Since they bud later, there’s less of a risk for a late frost killing them off in the Spring, since they ripen earlier there’s less risk of that early winter frost.

You may remember Miles (played by Paul Giamatti) in the 2004 movie Sideways who drinks a 1961 Château Cheval Blanc at the end of the film inside some sad fast-food burger joint.

You can call me … (8:54)

France:
- Saint-Émilion and Pomerol: Bouchet, Gros Bouchet, and Grosse-Vidure
- Médoc: Carmenet
- Loire Valley: Breton
- Véron, Bouchy, Noir-Dur, Méssange Rouge, Trouchet Noir
Italy:
- Veneto: Bordo
- Cabernet Frank
Spain’s Basque Country: Archéria

Let’s be frank (9:32)

Does anyone know where any of the names come from? Nope.

However there are, as with many of our grape gabs, several theories about its origins.

It could come from Basque Country, but that would counter the production of Cabernet Franc-based wines in Bordeaux about the same time, as in 18th century or earlier.

There are also accounts from the 1600s that suggest Cabernet Franc was the vine of choice planted by an abbot in St. Nicolas de Bourgueil. This abbot’s name was Breton, and that’s what they call Cab Franc in the Loire.

It could have been brought from the Bordeaux or Southern France area … or over the Pyrenees ~~and through the wood~~s ♫ from Basque Spain. We really aren’t certain.

Between the Loire and Bordeaux’s right bank, as well as Pessac Leognan on the Left Bank, this is the “original Cabernet,” according to Oz Clarke and it gets “far more respect in the Loire” (2010, p. 44).

In the Loire Valley, specifically Touraine, exquisite examples are found in Chinon, Bourgueil, Saint-Nicolas de Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny.

In the BDX it is part of the blend, with Cheval Blanc bringing in about 60% Cab Franc (Le Petit Cheval from the 1990s pushing upwards of 86 – 98% of the grape in the blend, depending on vintage), and Château Ausone about 50%. But it’s rarely the focus, unlike in the Loire.

All Franc, but not all the time (13:08)

We found a fun little side note. A producer in Bordeaux by the name of Mark Hellyar found six rows of Cabernet Franc after he purchased the Château Civrac estate in Côtes de Bourg. He made a limited edition wine with it in 2014 that was 100% CF. (Drinks Business). There are others, such as Trotte Vieille, Le Bel, Pitray, and Belle Assise that have also trotted out some pure Cab Franc releases.

Yet in the northeastern reaches of Italy some have mistaken Cab Franc for Carménère, but some also call it Cabernet Frank. As in, “Franky Goes to Hollywood.” As in “Relax.” There are also some rock star producers making Cab Franc wines in Italy from the likes of Quintarelli (Veneto), Schiopetto (Friuli-Venezia Giulia), and Ca’ del Bosco by Maurizio Zanella (IGT Sebino, Lombardia).

In parts of Tuscany it also has a good-sized role in wine production. Hello, Bolgheri.

All in the Franc family? (16:56)

Cabernet Sauvignon is an offspring and so are Merlot and Carménère. This could explain confusion in Italy with Carménère and Frank, and in Chile with Carménère and Merlot.

Around the world (18:24)

Whether in the old or new world, in single varietal form or blended into Meritage and other styles, Cabernet Franc is not an unknown. Growing and production regions include:

Hungary
South Africa
New Zealand
California and Washington state
DON’T Discount the NE USA – Virginia, Pennsylvania, and NY. DO Revisit our podcast about New York Wines, where we tasted some killer Cab Francs from the Finger Lakes a year ago this week! (https://www.winetwofive.com/episode-143-new-year-new-york-wines/)
Canada – Cab Franc ice wine! YUM!!!
Um, Colorado? We do some decent Cabernet Franc here, too!

Check out this Cabernet Franc chat with Denver Wine Radio and winemaker Michelle Cleveland of Creekside Cellars (19:40

https://www.spreaker.com/user/denverwine/week-3-seg-2

What to expect in the glass (21:00)

Styles range from sweet ice wines to sparkling wines. Dry, light -medium bodied rosés to age worthy, dry, structured reds. The prices range too. Gorgeous Cab Francs can be found at nearly every price point, $17 – $125 to $800+.

General characteristics of a varietal wine are dry, medium bodied with a ruby color. The fruit focuses on raspberries, red fruits and blackberries. Earthy components like leather, tobacco and pencil lead blend beautifully with floral and vegetal flavors like celery seed and green pepper. Tannin and acidity are elevated, but not as high as Cabernet Sauvignon.

Resources

Books

Clarke, O. (2012). Bordeaux: The wines, the vineyards, the winemakers – a new look at the world’s most famous wine region. New York: Sterling.

Clarke, O. & Rand, M. (2010). Grapes and wines: A Comprehensive guide to varieties and flavours. New York: Sterling.

Robinson, J., Harding, J., & Vouillamoz, J. (2012). Wine grapes: A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours [Kindle Edition]. New York: Ecco.

Websites

Guild Somm https://www.guildsomm.com/research/compendium/w/grape_varieties/1070/cabernet-franc

Jancis Robinson https://www.jancisrobinson.com/learn/grape-varieties/red/cabernet-franc

UC Davis: http://iv.ucdavis.edu/files/24324.pdf

Foundation Plant Services http://fps.ucdavis.edu/fgrdetails.cfm?varietyid=355

Wine Enthusiast https://www.winemag.com/varietals/cabernet-franc/

Pod Quiz! (25:15)

Last week we asked about the Darnibole PDO: where is it, what kind of wine is it, and what grapes are used to make it?

The answer: Darnibole is a PDO in England that makes only one kind of wine: a white wine with the Bacchus grape. The grapes come from only one winery, and one vineyard belonging to that winery. That winery is Cornwall County’s Camel Valley.

This is so unique! Other requirements: screwcap, and no animal products can be used (think of sturgeon bladders or egg whites for fining, for example), and the wine has to be dry.

This week’s Pod Quiz: Between Cabernet de Saumur and Cabernet d’Anjou, which one is required, by law, to have at least 1% residual sugar, and is therefore made in a sweeter style?

Shoutouts (29:58

We received a message from Alisha in Oklahoma, and we want to thank her for reaching out to us.

She says, “Just wanted to say I love your podcast. I don’t have a lot of wine education in Oklahoma so I love that I can listen to your podcast and learn more about this beautiful juice. Keep doing awesome things!” (Nov 4, 2018 on FaceBook)

Thank you, Alisha!

Cheers to WTSO, Our Show Sponsor! (30:45)

Here’s where you get the best online price because WTSO will price match any bottles they have. Did we mention that both of the Cabernet Francs in Steph’s glasses this week are from WTSO?

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Patreon Love (31:48)

Thank you to our patrons who support us on our Patreon crowdfunding platform!

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Congratulations to this month’s winner, Clay in Arizona who won some WTSO/Weekly Tasting swag!

Connect (37:16)

Between each weekly chat you can find us on the social spaces @WineTwoFive, and play in our private FaceBook group called Wine Two Five Community!

Connect with Val on Twitter @WineGalUnboxed and everywhere else as @VinoWithVal.

Steph is in all the social spaces as @TheWineHeroine.