Episode 153: A Port Primer
In preparation for a special guest that will joining us from Portugal in the next episode, we thought it would be appropriate to polish up our Port knowledge. This week we are popping off with a Port primer to get the party started. We cover styles, service, and try to get a jump on those burning fortified wine questions.
In the Glasses This Week (1:10)
Val: Silver Needle Bai Hao Yin Zhen. This is considered a prestigious, high-grade Chinese tea from the Fujian province. It’s harvested in spring and the flavors are floral, delicate, with some white fruit. Silver leaves are harvested in the spring and dried on bamboo mats. Yezi is the supplier, and apparently they have their own tea farmer named Yu Quizhao.
Steph: Sandeman Founders Reserve Porto – for only $14 a bottle. According to the Sandeman website it should last about four weeks. It is a Ruby style Port with an average age of four-year-old wines in the blend. It is cold stabilized, filtered and ready to drink now. Steph noted dark cherries and raspberries with a topping of chocolate sprinkles. Youthful, intense and wanting vanilla ice cream.
Port – A Primer
What it is (4:15)
First of all, real Port comes from Portugal. Port is classified under a category of wines known as fortified wines. That is, fortified by adding grape brandy (known as aguardente “burning water” at 77%) during the fermentation process. Not only does this fortification add alcoholic strength to the wine, but it raises the alcohol to a level that kills the yeasts, leaving unfermented sugars in the finished product. This is why port is generally sweet (although there are some dry styles, depending on when the fermentation was stopped), and is usually between 18 and 20% alcohol.
The Region (5:45)
As we mentioned, Port comes from the Douro Valley, which is divided into three main regions, each with different climates. Baixo Corgo, closer to the Atlantic Ocean and furthest west is going to be the coolest and wettest, sporting a maritime climate. However, prime Port property is in the Cima Corgo and the Douro Superiour, which is furthest east and nearest to the border of Spain. The weather becomes more continental as we move east, with hotter and drier growing conditions; there’s also a mountain range that provides a rain shadow, or protection, to the more inland vineyards from the Atlantic and associated rain and storms.
Just as important here is the river, which producers use to send their wines to the port city of Vila Nova de Gaia to age in large pipes (550 litre barrels).
However, some producers (or quintas) choose to age their wines on their properties; this results in a condition called Douro Bake. A wine with Douro Bake will seem older than it really is because of the hotter, drier aging conditions. This is a matter of style, as current technology can moderate the temperatures in the aging facilities to avoid Douro Bake.
History (6:54)
Once upon a foot stomp …
While archeological evidence of lagares (those large concrete foot-treading troughs) have been found as far back as the 3rd and 4th centuries, Port itself only dates back to the 1600s. That was when the Anglo-Portuguese treaty boosted trade due to special customs and privilege arrangements. The wine being shipped around at that time was a light table wine from the cooler, wetter Minho region (think of where Vinho Verde comes from).
While there were ongoing scufuffles (yes, scufuffles) between various empires over trade, particularly when it came to French wine, it was England that turned to importing more wine from Portugal. However, by trying to up their wine production, the English living in Portugal were shipping sub-par wines that were sinking in terms of quality. So they moved inland to the warmer Douro valley to take advantage of the climate and finer grape-growing conditions. They also took advantage of the Douro river to send their wines to the port, and discovered that by adding brandy to the wines before loading them up in preparation for the ocean voyage that the wine would be stabilized, and not arrive in England all flabby or worse, spoiled.
This was about the time the origins of the socalcos, or the step-like configuration of the vineyards on steep slopes, can be traced back to. These vineyards had to be accessed by mule and harvested by hand due to the steps.
But back to treaties and trade (7:45)
All good wine students prior to this primer have heard (or will hear of, or see it on an exam) of the Methuen Treaty of 1703 which again, bolstered Port wine making by offering a duty discount on Portuguese wines, as opposed to more heavily taxed French Wines.
In 1756 the Portuguese government allowed the farmers of the Duoro Valley to protect their investments in land, labor, and winemaking practices by creating an institution that not only set the boundaries of the better growing areas using over 330 specific stone markers, but also built the institution that would protect the budding industry against fraud and encourage price stability, which had been a recent problem. It has the distinction of being one of the first demarcated wine producing regions.
The fortification of wines by this time had become more common practice by the mid 1700s, mostly to appeal to the English palate for sweeter, full-bodied wines. Some winemakers were still eschewing the the process, claiming it adulterated their fine wines. But in the 1800s the process of fortification, combined with the ridiculous harvest of 1820, created such stellar wines that, or fortification, became standard practice.
Protecting Port’s origins (9:07)
By protecting the definition of where the best grapes could be grown, the wine producers of the Douro would secure the establishment of more sturdily defined production, authenticity and quality standards of the product that would be fleshed out and readdressed in the early 1900s that would also establish new geographical boundaries and wine production details. It was in 1907 that the Viticultural Committee for the Douro Region, a regulating body, would be granted oversight of the denomination.
20th century and beyond (9:27)
In the late 1960s, the patamares were constructed due to the advent of bulldozers, these were first built at a Ramos Pintos quinta, and are comprised of dirt ramps that hug the contours of the steep slopes on a diagonal. Tractors, particularly the small ones built by Lamborghini, are used to harvest these sites, and the yield is smaller as well.
Finally, in the 70s and 80s, the vertical rows up and down the slopes were implemented by Ferreira and Ramos Pinto. These are known as vinha ao alto.
The IVDP, or Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto, was created in 2004.
Grapes (10:15)
Oh the grapes we can gab about here. The top six are Tinta Roriz (which is really just Tempranillo),, Tinta Franca, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Nacional, and Tinta Cão (which translates to “dog strangler”). But there are over a dozen red grapes authorized, including Bastardo.
There are white grapes too, the main ones being Gouveio (Verdelho), Malvasia Fina and Viosinho; but there are over a dozen of these authorized too.
Actually, there are nearly 100 grapes authorized for Port production, most producers stick to the five or six main varieties mentioned above.
Styles (11:30)
Ruby riches
Bottle-aged ports are your ruby styles. They are usually matured in the bottles after a maximum time in wood, again, depending on style – a late bottled vintage (or LBV) spends an average of four to six years in wood before bottling. A regular ruby or ruby reserve usually spends only about two years in wood.
Then there’s something called a “crusted” port, which is like a vintage in style, but less expensive. The difference is that it is a blend of a couple of harvests, not a single vintage year, but then it’s aged in wood for a maximum of two years, bottled, but not filtered. Therefore it will throw sediment. There are rules for bottle matured being on the label, but most are released at about six years.
Vintage goods (13:00)
When you buy a vintage ruby port, it will have sediment from spending more time aging in the bottle. They start to look more tawny, garnet actually, as they spend decades aging (don’t we all?), however, it’s not so much from oxidation as is the case with the wood-aged tawnies.
Single Quinta Vintage (SQVP) is like a vintage, but come from a single quinta, or producer, and all the grapes are picked from the same year. These are often made more often than vintage port, because if a vintage isn’t declared overall for the region, they may be having an exceptional year and just declare their own darned vintage. These also spend only a max of two years in the wood pipes. So they are bottled young, but won’t be released sometimes until a decade or so after bottling.
Bottom line: vintage rubies? Open, decant, drink now or forever hold your peace. All other rubies you have about a week.
The tawny taunt (14:00)
Wood-aged Ports are released when they are ready to drink. This is where you’ll find your white and tawny styles. These styles do not throw sediment, and they will not need decanting.
Here’s where you’ll see the tawny (two years in wood), tawny reserve which spends a minimum seven years in wood.
The age-indicated tawnies are bottled at 10, 20, 30, and 40 years. The indicated age, let’s say 20-year, is an approximation of what a 20 year old tawny should taste like, not the average of the blended wines in the bottle. And the reason why we chose 20 as the example, is because it is preferred by many port lovers for its balance of fruit and maturity. Not to mention it’s balancing of your value for the money.
Something special (15:38)
A special little something something called a colheita, which means “harvest,” is a must to discuss. Mmmm, colheita. Seven years in wood, but from a single vintage.
These are released when they are ready to drink, will not improve with age , but will also not deteriorate quickly.
There’s no sediment, no need for decanting, and one can keep tawnies open for a month (or four), preferably in the fridge.
But wait, there’s Garrafeira! (16:24)
Ahh, the rare Garrafeira. This creature is a single year port, aged seven years in wood, eight years in demi-john, and then decanted after 20, 30, 40 years, before being bottled. This is a hybrid, if you will, a combo of wood-aged/bottle matured.
What, white Port? (17:08)
Yes! White ports can also spend time in wood and can boast reserve (seven years in wood) or age indicators as well. These make outstanding aperitif wines, with or without the tonic and slice of lemon.
Think pink (17:50)
A final note on rose’. Croft created the pink port (technically a ruby that’s just a little lighter in color) 10 years ago. These are a marketing thing, but are capturing a unique share of the younger market. Next week’s guest in Episode 154 will tell us all about this, as he created it! There are other producers of this category now, however, it was the brainchild of Croft.
Serving and enjoying your bottle of Port (18:33)
To decant or not to decant? This is the question
The general rule is: vintage bottle-aged Ports should be decanted, and wood-aged Ports are not decanted.
Wood-aged Ports are ready to drink when sold and have the greatest shelf-life once opened. That’s why you see them at restaurants. They also have a T-cap closure.
Port tongs – they exist! (19:50)
Bottle-aged Ports are closed with a traditional cork (cork also can come from Portugal) but can be tricky to open if the bottle is super old and the cork is crumbly. Have you heard of Port tongs? If a usual run-of-the-mil corkscrew won’t work, there’s always another way when it comes to good wine. The basics of using the tongs involve heating the tongs in a fire/flame until they are glowing orange. Next, grab the neck of the bottle under the cork with the hot tongs and press firmly. Finally, wet the glass that was touched by the hot tongs just below the cork with a little ice water. The glass will break clean, and the wine will be ready to decant. Keep in mind that you’ll need to stand the bottle upright for several hours before opening it to make sure all the sediment’s at the bottom.
Here’s a nice video showing the tongs and the tableside service at Eleven Madison Park.
Storage & service (21:17)
Store all Ports in cool cellar conditions, and in general, serve at cellar temperature, with the exception of white port. Here’s a link to the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto site (IVDP) or Porto & Douro Wines Institute. The site is loaded with details on serving, conserving and food pairing when it comes to the multiple styles of ports. We think it’s the coolest, most detailed resource for consulting on how long you can keep your bottles around.
Another general rule: use a white wine glass for drinking Port. Dessert wine glasses or cordial glasses don’t allow you to get your swirl on or get your nose into the glass.
In the glass (22:29)
Vintage Port is dark garnet to purple in color with integrated fruit, structure, and strength. It can have notes of raisins, spices, prunes, chocolate, espresso, and heaven (if that were a smell). Vintage is the best of the best and constitutes only about 1-3% of all Port production.
Compared to tawny Port which is golden brown or amber in color with nutty, oxidized flavors and notes of caramel, toffee, fig, and vanilla goodness. Tawnies can be silky and intriguing.
Port is often served after a meal with dessert, or it is the dessert, but it can also be used in cocktails. Remember, there isn’t a right or wrong food pairing with Port. Like all wines, you should drink and eat what you like.
#ItsNot5OClockAndWeDontCare
Learn more, as there really is so much more! (24:45)
Resources
Port and Douro Wines Institute (IVDP) https://www.ivdp.pt/
Mayson, R. (2013). Port and the Douro. Oxford, UK: Infinite Ideas Limited.
Factoid (25:39)
In 2006, the word “port” was determined to be used only for wines produced in Portugal, in the specifically delimited geographical region. However, if a producer in the US was producing a port style wine prior to a March 2006 agreement under the “semi-generic” term “port” then they were grandfathered in.
Otherwise, we refer to these wines as “port style.” They are made in the same manner as Port, but are not true Port – or Porto – from Portugal. US Port-style wines are still delicious, and a great value, so please buy them and enjoy them, but they are not authentic Port.
https://www.ttb.gov/industry_circulars/archives/2006/06-01.html
Wino Radar (27:35)
Since we are recording on International Women’s Day (8 March, 2017), we thought we’d share the 2017 blog post called Conversations with Women Winemakers in Portugal’s New Douro researched and written by Professors Lucia and John Gilbert from Santa Clara University. One of the subjects Lucia studies is women’s career paths in male dominated fields. Lucia and her husband John run the Women Winemakers of California website and in addition to their own articles, they also have links to other websites and stories about women in the wine business.
Shoutouts (28:53)
In early March Val and Steph had a mini-retreat in Denver to do some podcast planning and had a chance to finally meet-in person our guest from episode 117, Kala Maxym, the Chief Event Composer of Five Senses Tastings. We shared a killer bottle of Godello from Bodegas Godeval while sitting at Blue Island Oyster Bar and swapping entrepreneurial stories. Big love to Kala!
We also highly recommend eating at True Food (veggies!) and Departure Lounge if you’re in the Cherry Creek – Denver area.
Before we move on to our Patreon Love, let’s raise our glasses to the 35 women we’ve had on this podcast! We won’t read all the names, but we are honored that each and every one of you spent time with us. Congratulations on all your achievements!
Patreon Love (30:09)
Thank you to our Patrons who support us on the crowdfunding platform called Patreon!
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“Tastemaker Listeners”
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Connect: (31:32)
Between each weekly chat you can find us on the social spaces @WineTwoFive, and we encourage you to join our private FaceBook group called Wine Two Five Community!
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